Saturday, 26 November 2016

95, 96, 97, 98 & 99 Parker Points Wines


At our last monthly tasting groups get to together, Roderick poured an interesting flight of wines. This is the third time he has arranged this, what he calls "Parker Calibration".
The setup is easy enough - we get to know that 5 wines will be poured with, in this case, Parker points of 95, 96, 97, 98 and 99. Our job is to guess what the wines are, what point Parker has assigned and what score we give the wines.

Here we go!

Glass One
A rather big, outgoing nose with some maturity and notes of blackberries, herbs, choclate biscuits and some peppery aromas. A fine warmth. Very, very good.
The taste is warm and spicy with notes of fried herbs, dark cherries, warm tiles and dusty gravel. A long, warm finish with some nicely evolved structured tannins. Drinking fine today.
I was leaning to a more modern Barolo with some age and barrique aging, but no, it is a 100% Sangiovese, more specifically 1997 Cepparello, Isole e Olena. Judging from this bottle, should not be kept for much longer. Much more impressive three years ago. I guessed that Parker had a 95 point score on this, and so it was. I am more moderate and give it
92p   (tasted 2016/11)



Glass Two
A fine, deep, somewhat mature nose with notes of ripe cherries, bay leaves, smoke, stables and dark chocolate. Very, very good. Complex and deep.
The taste is tight and sandy with notes of ripe black currants, gravel, dry tobacco and graphite. A long, lingering finish with velvety tannins. This is really good.
It has to be a Cabernet, but from where? I jotted down Bordeaux? and Tuscany?, and finally settled for Bordeaux. But no, a fine 100% Cabernet from Italy in the shape of 1997 Cortaccio, Villa Cappagio. Contrary to the Cepparello, this was better today than three years ago. Parker point? 96 is my guess, and that is correct. I am almost as enthusiastic.
95p   (tasted 2016/11)

Glass Three
Everyone was surprised when the bottle was revealed. I had this pegged as a Châteauneuf-du-Pape... The nose is deep, warm and creamy with notes of asphalt, cooked blackberries, wood smoke and assorted herbs. Not bad at all but somewhat lacking in character.
The taste is big and concentrated with a fiery black fruit and notes of undergrowth, dark liquorice, herbs and some animal notes. A long finish with some charcoal notes.
All signs of a big Ch-du-Pape that the Monkton guy likes (but I usually don´t). What!? 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Philip Togni. No f....g way! There must be something wrong with this bottle, everyone was surprised, not a guess even close. Not a bad wine per se though. 97 from Parker. Ah well, I´ll give it (with a big question mark)
88p   (2016/11)



Glass Four
Oooh boy! What a wine. The clear winner in the line up. A great nose oozes up from the glass with notes of perfectly ripe black currants, liquorice, expensive tobacco and a beautiful perfumed scent. Very deep and handsome. It feels luxurious. Great wine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripe red and black currants, lead pencil shavings and tobacco. A long velvety finish with some nicely polished tannins underneath the ripe fruit. A great mouthfeel. Just entering maturity.
I was dead certain that this was a top notch California Cab or a more modern style Bordeaux, and when pressured I went for Bordeaux. Ok then - there is some Cabernet in this wine, but the rest is Grenache, Carignan and Syrah... The wine? 2001 Clos Mogador, René Barbier. Parker? 98p, and guess what, I´m almost there myself. A stunning wine.
97p   (tasted 2016/11)

Glass Five
Well, this is something extra. The nose explodes from the glass with notes of vanilla coated blackberries, mint, ripe flowers and glue (more specifically "björnklister", which everu Swede know what it is). Lots of warmth. A bit all over the place. Very deep.
The taste is broad amd big with notes of raspberry liquorice, blackberries, toothpaste and burned almonds. A long, hot finish that ends with a alcohol sense. Too big for my liking even though it holds together nicely, even when it gets warmer in the glass.
My guess? An over the top Shiraz from Aussie land, and it is 2005 Carnival of Love, Mollydooker. I got one right at least :-) 17% alcohol... A Parker 99 pointer, that´s about ten points too high.
89p   (tasted 2016/11)




Tuesday, 22 November 2016

Drinking Tonight - 2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa

With some Italian delicatessen and cheeses left over from the weekend I opened this bottle on this run of the mill Tuesday.

2005 Dolcetto d´Alba, Bruno Giacosa
A vigorous, upfront nose with notes of hard cherry candy, flower water, undergrowth and some band aid. Some maturity. Medium deep. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied with a fine acidity and notes of sweet/sour cherries, red currants, gravel and a fine salty note. Very nice. A very nice mouthfeel. On this evening, very gulpable.
87p   (tasted 2016/11)



Sunday, 20 November 2016

Just Bought


It is always nice when magnums arrive. This time in the shape of 1997 Castello di Brolio, Barone Ricasoli.
Tasted twice in the last couple of years - in 2012 & in 2015.

Friday, 18 November 2016

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos, Château Fuissé

Some cheese makes up a light friday dinner, and I opened a nice white Burgundy to go along.

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Le Clos, Château Fuissé
This producer makes great Chardonnay´s from Pouilly-Fuissé. This is a Monopole wine with more than 50 years old vines. The nose is stunning with notes of grilled lemons, hazel nuts, candle grease and melted butter. Lots of white flowers and a touch of matchbox. Deep and tight. This is really fine.
The taste is rich and potent with notes of blood oranges, lemon cream, lemon fudge and wheat cookies. The finish is long, long, long and balanced. A very fine acidity. Great wine, that will become even greater with 5-7 years in the cellar.
93p   (tasted 2016/11)

More wines from Château Fuissé - 1995 Pouilly-Fuissé & 2003 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Brûlés




Sunday, 13 November 2016

An Odd Bottle Tasting

You know those odd bottles you have in the cellar? Some are destined for that tasting that never will come together, some are spur-of-the-moment buys and when they arrive you wonder - why did I buy these, and some you don´t even remember byuing - where did they come from?
Anyway, I thought I would pick out some of these odd ones and have a tasting. Here is how it went.

1976 Grande Cuvée Venus, H. Germain
This turned out to be a nice surprise. When I bought it, it was listed as a NV from the 80´s. But when the cork came out with a tiny whisper, it said 1976 on it. Now ny expectations rose.
The nose is mature and finely tuned with notes of pickled orange peel, nuts, dry fudge and stale bread. A very fine maturity with a nice dried up sweetness. Very, very good.
The taste is round and velvety with tiny, tiny bubbles and notes of orange peel, coffe and milk, dry fudge and a fine earthy note. A very good acidity. Drinking very well.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)



1959 Muscat, Nicolas Charenton
Some two years ago I had a 1964 Muscadet that was stunning. This 59 wasn´t. A big, oxidized nose with notes of moist mushrooms, old honey and undergrowth.
The taste is dry and liniar with some mushrooms, saw dust and dried up grass. Ah, well, old bottles...
62p   (tasted 2016/10)

The first flight consisted of three bottles from the 1976 vintage. Heard from one of the tasters - "if the middle wine isn´t a Burgundy, I need to go a wine course"... I wish him luck in his future training :-)
1976 Beaune Clos des Mouches, Chanson
A fine, soft, spicy nose with notes of dried strawberries, autumn leaves, rosehips and some animal scents. Very, very good. All bottles popped and poured but this kept on growing momentum for some hours. Christmas spices and dried blood. Really good.
The taste is mature, seedy and medium bodied with notes of dried raspberries, forest floor, dried herbs and some dog fur. A fine, dry finish. Again, got better with air. Drinking great on this night.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)

1976 Royal Gran Reserva, Bodegas Franco-Espanol
A nice, outgoing, mature nose with notes of raspberry liquorice, ripe red currants, smoke and a hint of vanilla. Very good. Since I knew what it was I thought it had some tell tale seashell and vanilla scents, but the others who tasted blind thought that all three were Burgundies. Blind tasting is great! :-)
The taste is mature, soft and round with notes of sweet red currants, raspberry liquorice, chocolate biscuits and wood smoke. A fine warmth. Long and lingering. Very good. Still alive and kicking.
88p   (tasted 2016/10)

1976 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers, Domaine Paul Misset
A tight, withdrawn, mature nose with notes of red currants, dark spices, warm tiles and iron. Much sturdier than the two previous wines. Has a firm backbone. Earthy. Very good.
The taste is tight and warm with notes of red currants, red cherries, dusty earth, Christmas spices and smoke. A long, rigid finish. Very good but a tad foursquare. Has kept very well.
87p   (tasted 2016/10)


For the second flight I had "found" three bottles of Bordeaux from the great vintage of 1989. All decanted one hour before the first pour.
1989 Château La Tour de Mons
Opened like a mature Bordeaux with tell tale signs but soon enough some dusty, earth cellar notes took over. Not an ok bottle, sadly.
Not rated   (tasted 2016/10)

1989 Château Lanessan
I have not tasted many bottles of Lanessan over the years, but now I will seek out more mature bottles. The nose is tight and focused with fine notes of ripe black currants, cherries, graphite and some dog fur, to add to the complexity. Very, very good. Still on the young side of things.
The taste is tight, medium bodied yet feeling rich and concentrated, with notes of ripe black currants, expensive leather, undergrowth and a tad inky. Very, very long. Reaching its plateau of maturity, this will go on for a long time.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)


Calf kidneys to go with mature Bordeaux

1989 Château d´Issan
A deep, mature, creamy nose with notes of ripe black currants, fresh stables, chocolate biscuits and some fine leathery aromas. More and more autumn leaves comes up from the glass with air. Very, very good. Perfectly mature.
The taste is mature, dry and yet velvety in that great mature Bordeaux kind of way. Fine notes of ripe red and black currants, sugared coffee, dusty earth and tobacco. The finish is long and generous. This has matured into a very fine bottle of mature Margaux.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)

A flight of Riesling´s was up next.
1995 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese, Reichgraf von Kesselstatt
A wonderful, spicy, almost fully mature nose with notes of Kaffir lime, oranges, minerals, liquorice and bergamott. A very fine nerve. Deep and beautiful.
The taste is medium dry, intense and somewhat mature with notes of candied lemon peel, dried pears, spices and crushed rocks. A very fine acidity. Long and balanced. Really, really fine, should stay on this level for another 5+ years.
94p   (tasted 2016/10)

1997 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese, Reichgraf von Kesselstatt
The two year younger version of the Scharzhofberger has a deep, spicy nose with notes of dried apricots, almond paste, white flowers and wet asphalt. Complex and fine. Feels a little sweeter and denser than the 95.
The taste is rich and intense with notes of dried apricots, rubber, sweet/sour lemons and spices. A long, finely tuned finish that borders on medium sweet. A very good acidity. This is goood! Could still evolve, give it 5+ years.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)


1999 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Reichgraf von Kesselstatt
A deep. sweet, spicy nose with notes of rubber, dried pine apple, moist earth and a light touch of curry. Sweet and fine.
The taste is big, sweet and concentrated with notes of spicy yellow fruit, rubber, dried flowers and lemon candy. A long, high finish with a good acidity. A tad light in the middle flavour, but very good all the same.
88p   (tasted 2016/10)

As a sweet ending of the evening I opened a mature Sauternes and served some Cantuccini with it - these almond biscuits goes extremely well with mature Sauternes.
1986 Château Rayne-Vigneau
A deep, focused, rich nose with notes of dried apricots, glue, beeswax and a good portion of botrytis. Very, very good. Some dried up vanilla ice cream. Full bodied. A lovely maturity. This is really fine.
The taste is big, sweet and concentrated with notes of dried apricots, matchbox, linoleum, candied tangerines and botrytis. Very long and intense. In a perfect place.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)



Saturday, 12 November 2016

Two White Burgundy Clunkers From The Fine 2014 Vintage

Tried these out tonight to go with a chunky piece of cod with mixed vegetables and a white wine sauce with a hint of ginger.

2014 Bourgogne Couvent des Jacobins, Louis Jadot
This has a upfront, nice nose with notes of candied lemons, a hint of pine apple, butter cup flowers and sweet minerals. Feels like there were some really ripe fruit that went into this wine. Good.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of grilled lemons, lemon candy, old flower water and wet stones. A medium long, warm finish with a nice enough acidity, but it is a tad heavy at the end. For 14 Euro I would choose something else.
82p   (tasted 2016/11)


2014 Bourgogne Les Sétilles, Olivier Leflaive
Like this. You have to pay 3 Euro more, but you get a better wine. A young, steely nose with notes of lemons, tangerines, pickled ginger, flint and gravel. Very, very good.
The taste is fresh, liniar and perky with lots of ripe acidity and notes of lime juice, ginger, star fruit and crushed rocks. A fine mouth feel. Should get even better with some years in the cellar.
87p   (tasted 2016/11)


Friday, 11 November 2016

Another Fine Italian 93 - Gravello, Librandi

As I have noted many times before, 1993 is an underrated vintage in Italy, in Piedmont, in Tuscany and, as in this case, in Calabria.

1993 Gravello, Librandi
This IGT is a blend of 60% Gaglioppo and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vintage was 1988.
The nose is deep, warm and mature with notes of fried rosemary, ripe black currants, lead pencil and some asphalt scents. Very, very good. A touch of wood smoke after a while. Mature, yes, but still has lots to offer.
The taste is warm, spicy and seedy with notes of warm tiles, chocolate covered cherries, rosemary and scorched earth. A very fine warmth. Long and firm. Almost fully mature. A very good drink on this Friday evening. The price for a mature Calabrian bottle, bought a couple of weeks ago? A staggering 10 Euro...
88p   (tasted 2016/11)



Monday, 7 November 2016

Drinking Tonight - 1983 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre, Bacheroy-Josselin

Notice that the cork didn´t want to leave the bottle...
Well, winter has temporarily (or at least I hope so!) conquered Sweden. I just received a nice parcel of bottles, and to go with a hearthy fish soup I opened one of the new arrivales.

1983 Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre, Bacheroy-Josselin
A lovely, big, mature nose with notes of dried apricots, moist mushrooms, old coconut, matchbox, decaying flowers and some pine apples in the background. A fine, deep, round nose. A very fine maturity. I love these big, textured and backboned 83´s!
The taste is mature, viscous and finely structured with notes of ripe lemons and tangerines, sweet red tea, matchbox and dry fudge. The finish is long and fine, with a great acidity and a nice body. Drinking great today and surely for another 3+ years.
89p   (tasted 2016/11)


Sunday, 6 November 2016

Just Bought

A mystery bottle! Well, the vintage at least is a mystery. It was sold as an old, maybe from the 40´s or 50´s, bottle from Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru) - (as the labed used to say, now it says Branaire-Ducru).
The capsule on top says "Château Branaire St Julien - Medoc". It has a deep punt, like bottles from the 30´s or the 40´s. A very good level, just below the neck. Will be interesting to open soon...



Friday, 4 November 2016

Friday Dinner Barolo - 1974 Barolo Riserva Speciale, Tenuta Cerequio


Its Halloween, and I opened this Barolo to go with black pasta with a sauce made up of pieces of veal, mushrooms, mustard, rosemary and cream.

1974 Barolo Riserva Speciale, Tenuta Cerequio
This 42 year old La Morra Nebbiolo sports - after two hours in a decanter - a fine, warm, open nose with notes of cooked cherries, chewing tobacco, warm rose petals, mushrooms and some animal scents. Very good. A fine dried up sweetness. Finnish liquorice. Evolves for hours.
The taste is mature and tight with notes of dried cherries, ceps, rosehips, tar pastilles and forest floor. A long, sandy finish. On top of its game, drinking beautifully. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2016/11)


Thursday, 3 November 2016

Tasting Dinner With Charles Heidsieck, Sauzet, Aldo Conterno, Comte de Vogüé, Cossart Gordon & More!


It was yet again time for our annual tasting dinner - the years just rushes by. A great evening as always with yummy food and great bottles of wine!
All bottles, except for, in my case the white Burgundies, tasted double blind.

2002 Cuvée Louise, Pommery
A youngish, cool nose with notes of yellow apples, crushed rocks, nuts and freshly washed clothes. Pure and fine, but verging on anemic.
The taste is tight and elegant with notes of lemon cream, yellow apples, wet stones and minerals. Some maturity. A medium bodied finish with a good acidity. A fine wine but without a clear character.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)



1995 Blanc de Millénaires, Charles Heidsieck
This, on the other hand, has character in spades! A racy, deep and handsome nose with notes of lime peel, dry vanilla fudge, a cold Tarte tatin and some saw dust scents. Very refined. Some mature notes but this has a long way to go.
The taste is intense and focused with notes of dried apples, lime cream, toasted bread and sweet minerals. The finish is long, long and sporting a cleansing acidity. Great wine!
96p   (tasted 2016/10)

2008 Brut, Camille Savés
Presented itself as it did a year ago, only a tad better and deeper. Should get even better with 2-3 years time in the cellar.
91p   (tasted 2016/10)


NV Les Maillons Blanc de Noir, Ulysse Collin
This 100% PInot Noir sport a young, steely, smoky nose with notes of ripe red apples, red currants, bakelite, dark caramel and a touch of band aid. Very complex and fine.
The taste is broad, concentrated and deep with notes of ripe red apples, forest floor, spices and a touch of wood. A long, intense finish with a great acidity. This is really fine.
93p   (tasted 2016/10)

The first course was a lobster and sweetbread ragu served in the lobster shell, by yours truly. I had brought three mature white Burgundies to go along.
1983 Chablis Grand Cru Moutonne, Long Depaquit
This Monopole shows a deep, mature nose with notes of candle grease, dried orange peels, flower water and minerals. A fine maturity. Kept well in the glass. Very good.
The taste is broad and velvety with notes of dried apricots, clay, dried flowers and a touch of band aid. A medium long finish tha ends soft  and dry. A very good drink with the food. Fully mature.
88p   (tasted 2016/10)



1986 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Canet, Etienne Sauzet
At first, a bit restrained, even a hint of sulphur (that magic mixture), but then. Oh boy. The nose oozes up from the glass with notes of yellow beets, iodine, roasted sea shells and a hint of saffron. Lots of energy and complexity. Still young. Really, really fine.
The taste is rich, concentrated and fresh with stunning fruit, a cleansing acidity and a looooooong finish. This is great. It keeps on evolving and the last drops, ca 3 hours after the first pour, are the best ones. Bottles like this will go on for 20 years. Glad I have one more. Stunning juice.
97p   (tasted 2016/10)

1989 Meursault Charmes, G. Michelot
A big, round, mature nose with notes of almond paste, dark fudge, Tarte tatin and forest floor. Full bodied and fine. Some roasted nuts comes through after a while. Very, very good.
The taste is steady and rich with notes of spicy lemons, wet stones, dried apricots and warm grass. A long, wide finish. A fine body. A lovely dried up sweetness. Long. Really good.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)



The main dish was succulent fillets of deer with root vegetables and shaved white truffle from Gotland. And some wines to go along...
1983 Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Maume
The first wine has a deep, mature, lovely nose with notes of damp forest floor, rosehips, dried raspberries and some light meaty scents. Very, very good. A fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is mature, round and dry with notes of dried wild strawberries, dusty earth and dry liquorice. A long, fine finish. This is drinking great this night. Just lovely.
93p   (tasted 2016/10)

1976 Mazis-Chambertin, Domaine Maume
"#&%¤"#¤&"! Corked!




1966 Mazoyeres-Chambertin, Henri Richard
This was kindly poured as a replacement for the bottle above. The nose is beautifully mature with notes of sweet red bell peppers, dried raspberries, veal stock, undergrowth and deacying flowers. A high, fins nose with a touch of VA. Very, very good.
The taste is mature and dry with notes of dried red currants, forest floor, warm tiles and dry tobacco. A long, round finish with a fine warmth. This has kept very well. A fine smokiness in the finish.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)

1997 Barolo Colonello, Aldo Conterno
An ermine among the cats...did we notice? Nope. The nose is deep, compact, still young and vibrant with notes of raspberry liquorice, dark flowers, forest floor and a hint of dark chocolate. Deep, impressive and structured. Lots of potential here.
The taste is young, lively and dark fruity with notes of ripe strawberries, rosehips, oriental spices and dark earth. Very, very long. Seedy. This is gooood, and is going to get even better in 5+ years. But did I peg it as a Barolo.....no.
93p   (tasted 2016/10)



2006 Bonnes Mares, Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé
A deep, dense, concentrated nose with notes of ripe raspberries, Asian spices, forest floor and rich coffee. Seamless an very fine. Some smoky notes evolve with time. This is really good. Still young.
The taste is refined and racy with notes of wild raspberries, red currants, earth and expensive tobacco. Very long and intense. Needs time. A very fine mouthfeel. A hint of oak in the finish. Great wine.
93p   (tasted 2016/10)

1943 Riversaltes, Delving
A seedy, mature, cool nose with notes of dried orange peel, tangerines, assorted nuts and some saw dust. Medium deep, and a bit hollow in the middle.
The taste is bigger than the nose leads you to believe with notes of red fruits soaked in alcohol, wood and bakelite. A long warm finish. Feels a bit disjointed. I have tasted far better Riversaltes.
81p   (tasted 2016/10)



1969 Bual, Cossart Gordon
A distinct, deep, focused nose with notes of green tea, almond paste, wet ash, overripe grey pears, plastic, and lots, lots more. Sooo deep and wonderful. Layers upon layers of the most fantastic things. Some VA. Intensity of the charts. Stunning.
The taste is high-pitched, vivid, intense and immortal, with notes of dried lime peel, burnt plastic, stale nuts, plywood and green tea. The finish goes on for ever, it seems. The acidity cuts like a blade. The first touch on the tongue feels semi sweet but the ending is dry. Breathtakingly beautiful.
97p   (tasted 2016/10)


Previous Tasting Dinners:
2011 Tasting Dinner

2012 Tasting Dinner

2013 Tasting Dinner

2014 Tasting Dinner

2015 Tasting Dinner


Wednesday, 2 November 2016

Turning 5 Years!

Today it is 5 years since I posted my first tasting notes on this blog. There have been a few more posts over the years - this one is no 968!
Up to posting this post there have been a total of 412.808 page views and 1.069 comments.

Thanks to all that have read my meandering thoughts on the wines I have tasted and to all that have comment over the years!

I thought I would celebrate with a nice bottle, but that failed - twice...

First a bottle from the Greatest Vintage Ever:
1964 Clos Mazeyres
A sound looking bottle, a good level, but an (almost) dead wine. The nose is high pitched with lots of VA and flower water and half rotten red currants.
The taste is dry, hollow and flat.
53p   (tasted 2016/11)


Ok then.....lets open a half bottle of
1961 Chambolle Musigny, B. & J. M. Delaunay
Well, better, but just. A big, murky nose with notes of burnt muscovado sugar, moist mushrooms and old meat stock.
The taste is big and four square with a lot of warmth and old, dried red fruit. Finish short and dry.
59p   (tasted 2016/11)

What a celebration so far...
I received a tasting sample the other day from Valid Wines, and by now I needed something - hopefully - more reliable.

2012 Vigno, Gillmore Wines
This 100% Carignan has a beautiful, open, young nose with notes of crushed red cherries, sweet violets, blood & iron and some dark flowers. High and pure. A very fine concentration. Raw rubber and clay. Complex. Very, very fine.
The taste is young, tight and utterly gorgeous with young, focused blueberry- and cherry fruit with additional notes of ink, dark flowers, veal meat and some sandy notes. A long, balanced finish. A very fine mouthfeel. To my recollection, the best wine I have tasted from Chile. A bargain at 25 Euro. Should evolve nicely for 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2016/10)



Monday, 31 October 2016

1985 Château Siran

Some meat, some potatoes, a red wine sauce - and a mature Bordeaux - what could go wrong?

1985 Château Siran
A bit barnyardy at first, but that receded to the background with some air. Then scents of autumn leaves, dried red and black cherries, graphite and dry tobacco arises from the glass. Very classic and very good. A fine earthy aroma. A fine maturity.
The taste is medium bodied, mature and dry with polished, salivating tannins and notes of cool black currants, tobacco, autumn leaves and dry leather. In a fine drinking phase. From time to time it is hard to beat a classic Bordeaux. A tasty bottle.
89p   (tasted 2016/10)



Saturday, 29 October 2016

Barolo Boys Plans The Upcoming Invasion Of Piedmont

On the 30th of November, the Barolo Boys lands in the holy land of Nebbiolo. For three days we will drink, sip, taste, occasially spit, eat truffles, coniglio, braised meat; and meet those fantastic people who transforms Nebbiolo into nectar.

It has been too long since tha last trip.

But these visits have to be planned. More so than the D-Day. So I opened a couple of bottles and we discussed what producers and restaurants we will grace with our visit...

2008 Special Club, Juillet-Lallement
I tasted the 2006 recently and liked it a lot. Lets see how the 08 is. The nose is fresh and racy with notes of lemon peel, matchbox, green cabbage and gravel. Very good. Young of course.
The taste is perky and fine with notes of white peaches, lemons, gravel and the white beneath the orange peel. A long finish with a hint of bitterness. Needs some time. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)


1964 Eltville Marcobrunner Riesling Auslese Cabinet, Langwerth von Simmern
I opened these two older gems to go with some coniglio paté and truffle salami. The Eltville shows a big, mature, round nose with notes of rubber, dried apricots, moist earth and cigarette ash. A fine maturity. A bit loose around the edges though.
The taste is mature, velvety and semi dry with notes of blood oranges, dry honey, moist earth and a hint of saffron. The acidity is a tad low. Good.
85p   (tasted 2016/10)




1964 Niersteiner Hehr Riesling Feine Auslese, Heinrich Seip
Beforehand I thought that the Eltville was to be the winner, but with old bottles you never know. This is a stunner! The nose is deep, mature and vivid with notes of dried oranges, spices, some honey scents and lots of wet crushed rocks. A very fine balance. Perfectly mature.
The taste is mature, long and semi dry with lovely dried orange fruit and additional notes of smoke, rubber and minerals. A fine acidity. In a great drinking stage. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2016/10)

The first red flight was three old Barolo´s from Enrico Serafino. A few years ago I had a very good 58 from this producer. We had gnocchi with pancetta and fried sage with these bottles.
1947 Barolo, Enrico Serafino
The 47 has a deep, round nose with notes of undergrowth, dried flowers, candle grease and some animal scents. With more air, they all got 1,5 hours in the decanter, dried mushrooms and smoke comes forward. Deep and fine.
The taste is dry and intense with notes of dried red currants, cigarette ash, dried mushrooms and a hint of tar. A long, dry finish with a fine warmth. Very, very good although this bottle has reached its peak some 10+ years ago.
88p   (tasted 2016/10)




1949 Barolo, Enrico Serafino
A great bottle of aged Barolo! The nose is deep, compact yet lively and rich with notes of dried red cherries, wood smoke, rosehips, dog fur and mushrooms. Very, very good. Some veal stock scents. High and fine. A very fine maturity.
The taste is mature, velvety and dark with notes of dried red cherries, red tea, rose petals, cigarr smoke and undergrowth. A long, lingering, dry finish. A laid back power and intensity. This is really fine. Bottles like this will hold for 10+ years.
93p   (2016/10)

1952 Barolo Riserva Speciale, Enrico Serafino
Oh dear. Even if you strain the wine from lumps in it.....its not drinkable. Looked good but have been badly stored somewhere along the line.
50p   (tasted 2016/06)

Second flight of Baolo´s and I had HIGH expectations. A cep and sweetbread risotto was served to go along.
1982 Barolo Granbussia Riserva, Aldo Conterno
The 82 sports a mature, high, ethereal nose with notes of mushroom soup, dried cherries, liquorice and a beautifully perfume of aged Nebbiolo. Very deep. This has aged in a gorgeous fashion. Velvety. A great nose.
The taste is not as great as the nose, sorry to say. It is fine, oh yes, but the fruit has dried out somewhat and the finish is a tad liniar. Notes of hard cherry candy, mushrooms and forest floor. Long and warm, and dry. But, with the risotto it created magic, the best combination of the four wines.
90p   (tasted 2016/10)


1990 Barolo Granbussia Riserva, Aldo Conterno
Aaaaaaaah! What to say, this is sooo close to perfection. The nose is a dream, with notes of sweet rose petals, ceps, dark fudge, tobacco, tar and the same lovely perfumed scent as in the 82 but even better and more intense. Breathtakingly beautiful.
The taste is pure, intense and tight with notes of ripe red cherries, rosehips, ceps, raspberry liquorice and some chocolate wafers. The finish is looong, with a stunning acidity and some tannins creeping up at the end. I could drink this every day of the week. Probably peeking, but will hold for 10+ years.
Brilliant stuff!
98p   (tasted 2016/10)

1996 Barolo Granbussia Riserva, Aldo Conterno
The 96 is no slouch either. The nose is deep, intense and loaded with notes of ripe red and black cherries, dark roses, forest floor, coffee powder and a lovely perfumed mint scent. Very deep and very fine. Still young. Refined.
The taste is youngish, tight and intense with notes of fresh cherries, hard cherry candy, dry liquorice, tobacco and rosehips. A powerful silkiness. The finish is counted in minutes. Some still sturdy tannins in the end. Give this 8+ years and it will challenge the 90. Impressive.
96p   (tasted 2016/10)


2001 Barolo Granbussia Riserva, Aldo Conterno
The 2001 is a real youngster. The nose is upfront, rich and minty with notes of ripe cherries, fresh tobacco, new leather and sweet minerals. Very deep. A bit ungainly from time to time. Very deep and ripe. Needs time.
The taste is concentrated, rich and direct with notes of sweet black cherries, pipe tobacco, forest floor and asphalt. Very intense. The finish is very long and distinct. Needs at least 8 years. Lots of potential here. After two days in the bottle it was even better than on this night, had it 94p but after two days it is
95p   (tasted 2016/10)

After the deep impressions of the Barolo´s I thought we needed some Riesling to wind down. Both from half bottles.
2001 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*, Selbach-Oster
Smells like a perfect summers day! A beautiful, ethereal, delicate nose with notes of butter cup flowers, white peach, chalk and a hint of rubber. A lovely creaminess to the fruit. This is stunning.
The taste is pure, complex and light with a brilliant acidity and notes of peaches, lemon cream, matchbox and minerals. It dances over your tongue. Ooooh so good!
95p   (tasted 2016/10)


2001 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Auslese Goldcap, Dönnhoff
The Dönnhoff feels "heavy" in comparison with the Selbach-Oster, but concentrating on it, it has a lot to offer. The nose is deep and multi layered with notes of ripe pears, gravel, warm grass and some vanilla ice cream. Deep and fine.
The taste is broad and intense with notes of dried apriocts, warm grass, lemon liquorice and minerals. A very long, tight finish. Aristocratic and fine. Still have places to go.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)

And now for the sweet stuff!
2015 Vouvray Moelleux Clos de Bourg 1er Trie, Huet
This was brought by S. A cool, grassy, elegant nose with a fine underlying sweetness in the shape of candied orange peels, sweet lime, oilcloth and warm hay. Very deep and fine.
The taste is young, sweet and complex with a brilliant acidity and notes of wet stones, kaffir lime, star fruit and minerals. A long, intense finish that ends semi dry. Very, very good. If this bottle is representative Huet has really got their shit together again.
93p   (tasted 2016/10)

1997 Coteaux du Layon Graine Nobles Marie Juby, Patrick Baudoin
A voluptuous, rich, sweet nose with notes of Tarte tatin, almond paste, smoked tea and spices. Very intense, very sweet and very yummy. Some maturity. Very concentrated.
The taste is big, sweet and dense with notes of apricots, almond paste, moist earth and ted tea. A long, long oily finish with a high acidity. Very impressive but should only be drunk in small sips.
92p   (tasted 2016/10)