Friday 31 March 2017

Friday Dinner Barolo - 1999 Barolo, Salvano


A few thick slices of prime beef on the grill (still inside, the Swedish weather doesn´t allow for any grill seasons outside - yet...), a hearthy sallad and a quickly whisked together béarnaise sauce - time for dinner!
And time for a Barolo!

1999 Barolo, Salvano
To my memory, I have not drunk any wine from this wine grower before. I have however bought some vintages lately, so I thought it was time to test drive one of them.
The nose is, with some air, a bit dense but nice, in a old fashioned way with notes of dark cherries, dried rose petals, sun warm rocks and mushrooms. Medium deep with a hint of pipe tobacco. Very, very good. A fine, soft warmth.
The taste is tight and dry with notes of red and black cherries, dried violets, warm sand and dried mushrooms. A long, warm finish. Some road dust and asphalt notes. Rugged tannins. The nose is more open. Still on the young side of things, should be better in 5+ years.
88p   (tasted 2017/03)


Tuesday 28 March 2017

2013 California Cabernet - Part Four

A few more bottles from this great vintage. I got to find me more!

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Flora Springs  (Napa Valley)
This 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 3% Malbec and 2% Petit Verdot blend has a inviting, open, fruity nose with notes of black currant jam, sweet violets, grilled meat and scorched earth. A fine warmth. Open for business.
The taste is big, warm and steady with notes of ripe black currants, raspberry liquorice, dusty earth and mocha. There are some rugged tannins beneath the sweet fruit. Guess it will need 6-8 years for the fruit and the tannins to balance out.
88p   (tasted 2017/03)


2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Selection, Raymond  (Napa Valley)
881 barrels were produced of this beauty and I want them all! The nose is deep, complex and utterly gorgeous with notes of perfectly ripe black currants, freshly brewed coffee, iron and a hint of green peppers. Very deep and complex. A wonderful perfumed aroma.
The taste is young, focused and seedy with notes of ripe black currants, leather, beet root juice and undergrowth. The finish goes on for a minute and ends with polished, sandy tannins. Just lovely. A great bargain at 40 Euro!
96p   (tasted 2017/03)


2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Girard  (Napa Valley)
The Girard sports a big, outgoing nose with notes of sweet black currants, blueberries, sugared coffee and violets. Rich, deep and fine.
The taste is big and broad shouldered with notes of blackberries, charcoal, violets and new leather. A long, warm finish with high strung tannins. Very, very good but needs 4+ years in the cellar to come together. Went perfectly with some grilled burgers.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Frog´s Leap  (Napa Valley)
This is an impressive effort. The nose is deep, tight and cool with notes of ripening black currants, sandelwood, tobacco, iron and warm gravel. A very fine dusty scent. Bx-like, like in the good old days. Very, very fine.
The taste is refined, tight and expressive with notes of ripe red and black currants, lead pencil shavings, leather and earth. The finish is long, sandy and distinct. Lovely silky tannins. Give this 5+ years and enjoy it over 15+ years. 91% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Petite Sirah, Petite Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.
93p   (tasted 2017/03)



Friday 24 March 2017

One More 1993 - This Time A Brunello - 1993 Villa Poggio Salvi

Yet another fine 1993. I don´t know why I´m doing this, it would be better for me to keep quiet and keep on snapping up this bottles for virtually nothing. This one cost me a whopping 20 Euro...

1993 Brunello di Montalcino, Villa Poggio Salvi
Opens a bit funky but with air it displays fine, old school aromas of ripe, drying black cherries, rosemary bushes in a distance, spices, dry liquorice and a ever so slight moist wall-to-wall carpet. A fine depth with a soft, round maturity. A fine dried up sweetness. Very fine.
The taste is firm and dry but yet with a hearthy, warm, rich fruit, with notes of dried cherries, violets, dried rosemary, undergrowth and a hint of bonfire. Long, dry and rewarding. Lovely caressing tannins. Fully mature and drinking great. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

Other Villa Poggio Salvi tasted - 1998 Brunello2001 Brunello and 2006 Brunello Riserva.



Thursday 23 March 2017

2012 Les Aspres, Pierre Cros


Have you meet them? Those older gentlemen that with a strong voice proclaims "it was better before". What "before" is you don´t really get to know, but you sense that it is in a distant past.

Well, count me in.

At least when it comes to this wine. I have loved the wine in the past, especially the 2001 and 2003 vintages (see links below).
I started to salivate when I put the corkscrew in the 2012. And what did I get...

2012 Les Aspres, Pierre Cros
Is it a result of a wine making process or a result from a factory making rubber? The nose is big, blowsy and over the top with notes of raw rubber, melting asphalt, rotting flowers and blackberry jam. Very sweet and with a burning rubber sensation, but sensation is not the word. Assault is a better one.
The taste is sweet, overpowering and very, very concentrated with notes of a blueberry pie, hot asphalt, burning rubber and the kind of liquorice that is the cheapest possibly kind. Long, hot, long, hot, in perpetuum. I guess it would work great as a paint remover. My poor intestines...
53p   (tasted 2017/03)

Previous tasted 2001´s:
http://barolista.blogspot.se/2012/04/easter-syrah-battle-part-i.html

http://barolista.blogspot.se/2014/01/the-results-from-swedish-syrah-jury.html

http://barolista.blogspot.se/2014/08/5-bottles-of-syrah-fizzy-zinfandel.html

http://barolista.blogspot.se/2015/09/a-dear-reunion-2001.html

The 2003 tasted:
2003 - http://barolista.blogspot.se/2012/05/finally-some-wine-2003-domaine-cros.html


Sunday 19 March 2017

2014 Montagny 1er Cru Les Coéres, Feuillat-Juillot

I drank the 2013 version of this wine a while back and liked it. I then saw that it had been replaced with the 2014 vintage. I bought some.

2014 Montagny 1er Cru Les Coéres, Feuillat-Juillot
A fine, focused nose, and as the 13, a tad laid back, but displaying nice aromas of sweet/sour lemons, peaches, smoke and a hint of ginger. A fine depth, more concentrated than the 13. Very, very good.
The taste is young, balanced and tight with notes of lime and lemon cream, grass, cap gun smoke and nuts. A long, distinct finish with a very fine acidity. Again, better than the 13, and a really fine white Burgundy on its own. For 18 Euro, a real bargain.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)



Thursday 16 March 2017

Les Champagnes de Vignerons

Some producers from Les Champagnes de Vigneros were in town. I got to taste the following wines.
A note for the future, when I started to wax enthusiasticly over the 2008 vintage, every producer said "yes, yes, but wait for the 2015´s"...

Click on the producers name to get to their website for info.

Phal B. de Beaufort
2009 Privilege
A new producer that started in 2008. The Privilege has a cool, fresh nose with notes of nuts, lemons and freshly washed clothes. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and salivating with notes of nutmed, orange liquorice and gravel. A fine acidity. 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay.
90p   (tasted 2017/03)


2010 Expression
This 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay is even better, with a cool, elegant nose with notes of spices, dark bread and gravel.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of caramel, red currants and toasted bread. A long, balanced finish.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

2011 Harmonie Rosé
The Rosé is a blend of 44% Pinot Noir, 44% Chardonnay and 12% other grapes. The nose is restrained and steely with notes of ripening lingonberries and liquorice.
The taste is pure and seedy with notes of red currants, chrushed rocks and iron. A tad foursquare compared to the two previous wines. Some time in the cellar should help.
87p   (tasted 2017/03)

Gauthier-Christophe
NV Mathilde Blanc de Blancs
A light, fresh nose with notes of toasted bread, elderberries and crushed rocks.
The taste is dry and linear with a high acidity and notes of sweet/sour lemons, grass and wet stones.
87p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Reserve
This Solera Champagne consists of 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier. The oldest vintage is 2004. The nose is racy and healthy with notes of red apples, plums and undergrowth. Very good.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of apples, lingonberries, warm grass and chalk. Long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2017/03)


NV Paul Devaud
2010 and 2011 vintages make up this blend with 50% each. It has a strong, fine nose with breed and notes of dark bread, dried flowers, smoke and chrushed rocks. Very, very good.
The taste is dry and snappy with notes of red plums, flowers, grass and gravel. A very long, structured finish. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

2009 Rosé
The Rosé shows of a cool nose with notes of dried raspberries, chalk and dry warm grass. A bit anonymous.
The taste is young and tight with notes of dry caramel, raspberry liquorice and salty stones. A medium long finish. A tad linear.
86p   (tasted 2017/03)

Gimonnet-Gonet
NV Tradition
A fine, spicy nose with notes of yellow apples, summer flowers and road dust. A fine depth.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of blood oranges, grass and flowers. A very fine acidity. 50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir and 2014 as base vintage.
89p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Cuvée Or
This Blanc de Blancs offers up a cool, fine nose with notes of lemon fudge, cool earth and passionfruit. Very fine.
The taste is pure and peculiar (in a good way) with notes of lime, dry fudge, earth and iron. Long and very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)


NV Rosé
The best Rosé at the tasting. The nose is deep and multi layered with notes of strawberries, forest floor, plums and a hint of chocolate. Deep and fine.
The taste is pure and fine with notes of wild strawberries, ckalk, dried flowers and dry liquorice. Interesting enough it is 93% Chardonnay and 7% Pinot Noir, but Philippe describe in detail how he source just the right Pinot fruit for this blend. Geat wine. Buying!
92p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Extra
This is a Extra Brut with 2g/l dosage. The nose is a bit shy with cool lemon fruit and a hint of white pepper.
The taste is young, dry and perky with notes of lemon peel, chalk and grass. Very good in a dry style.
88p   (tasted 2017/03)

2008 Carat de Mesnil
I was looking forward to this, since almost every 08 I have tasted have been fine. This bottle isn´t. The nose is deep but it displays overripe, almost cooked yellow fruit that makes the nose heavy. Concentrated, yes, but maybe too much.
The taste is big and broad with the same overripe fruit as on the nose. A long finish with a piercing acidity. Unbalanced. The others who tasted at the same time seemed to like it...
82p   (tasted 2017/03)

Dérot-Delugny
NV Coiffe d´Or
This wine grower focus on Pinot Meunier, and this cuvée is 80% Meunier and 20% Chardonnay. It has a spicy, complex nose with notes of roasted nuts, Christmas spices, some and assorted red fruits.
The taste is dry and fine with notes of almond paste, dried flowers and spices. Long and really fine.
90p   (tasted 2017/03)

2008 Brut Millésimé
This is a stunner with a deep, vigorous nose with notes of spicy oranges, smoke, nuts and a hint of tobacco. Very complex and fine.
The taste is rich and tight and with notes of blood orange peel, pomegranate and lots of chrushed rocks. A long, impressive finish. 50% Meunier and 50% Chardonnay. Great stuff. Please someone import this!
93p   (tasted 2017/03)


NV Cuvée Harmonie
This cuvée contains no Meunier but 50% each of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. It has a cool, elegant nose with notes of grilled lemons, wet gravel and smoke.
The taste is young and tight - it is made up of 50% of the vintages 2012 and 2013 - with notes of tangerines, smoke and gravel. Very, very good.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Cuvée Des Fondateurs
A interesting cuvée indeed - 100% Pinot Gris! Apparentely the only producer who makes a single Pinot Gris cuvée. The nose is a bit different with notes of asparagus, dried tropical fruit and elderberries.
The taste is very dry and linear with notes of dried tropical fruit, road dust and warm grass. Good but not really my cup of tea.
87p   (tasted 2017/03)

Hélène Delhéry
NV Extra Brut
A stony, fresh nose with notes of almonds, dried flowers and dried up butter cookies. A tad superficial.
The taste is light and dry with notes of dry lemon, dried flowers and gravel. A medium long finish. Good. 45% Menuier, 30% Pinot and 25% Chardonnay.
85p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Perles d´Assemblage
The same blend as above but with a higher dosage, 8 g/l, compared to 4g/l, and the fruit becomes rounder, sweeter and more harmonious. Clearly better.
88p   (tasted 2017/03)


NV Perles de Chardonnay
This Blanc de Blanc offers up a deep, clearly cut nose with notes of ripe lemons, freshly cut grass and sweet minerals. Very good.
The taste is tight yet with creamy Chardonnay fruit in the shape of lemon cream, white flowers and some buttery biscuits. Long and very fine.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Éclat de Perles
The Rosé is made up of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay and displays a cool, young nose with notes of dark bread, dried raspberries and gravel.
The taste is dry and seedy with notes of lingonberries, road dust and a hint of cocoa puffs. Good but a tad hollow in the middle.
86p   (tasted 2017/03)

Lacroix Triaulaire
NV Le Biographe
A 67% Pinot Noir, 17% Chardonnay and 16% Meunier blend that has a medium deep, somewhat dusty nose with notes of dried red currants, earth and dried flowers.
The taste is dry and linear with notes of damsons, gravel and a hint of tobacco. A bit foursquare.
85p   (tasted 2017/03)


2009 Champraux
The Champraux has a young, steely nose with notes of red currants, beet roots and moist earth.
The taste is dry and iron clad with notes of ripening blueberries, dusty earth and blood. Different, interesting but not my kind of bubbly. 100% Pinot Noir.
86p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Les Premiers Piquets de Vignes
This is also a 100% Pinot Noir and it shows of a deep, tight nose with notes of red currants, liquorice, dried flowers and beet roots. Very good.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of ripening black currants, iron, green peppers and gravel. Long and distinct.
89p   (tasted 2017/03)

2011 Mont Marvin
100% Pinot Meunier. A deep, dry nose with notes of dried up passion fruit, nuts and spices. Very good.
The taste is young, dry and spicy with notes of dried red currants, dusty earth and Christmas spices.
87p   (tasted 2017/03)

Morel & Fils
NV Brut Réserve
This 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay blends has a open, fresh nose with notes of toasted almonds, dark bread and warm gravel. Good.
The taste is cool and straight forward with notes of dried orange peel, dried flowers and dusty earth.
87p   (tasted 2017/03)

NV Rosé de Saignée
The Rosé has a restrained, dry nose with notes of red currants, dried raspberries and flower water. A tad hollow.
The taste is dry and tight with dried red fruits, gravel and smoke. A bit simple.
82p   (tasted 2017/03)


NV Cuvée Gabriel
This Bland de Blancs sports a deep, finely tuned, expansive nose with notes of lemon cream, white flowers and cap gun smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is young, fresh and focused with notes of almond paste, grilled lemons, summer flowers and minerals. Long and fine. Really good.
92p   (tasted 2017/03)


Tuesday 14 March 2017

Two Stunning Russian River Valley Chardonnay´s

2011 Russian River Valley Chardonnay, Paul Hobbs
Bought and drunk at our Florida trip a month ago. The nose is deep, finely tuned, with some maturity and gorgeous notes of ripe tangerines, roasted shellfish shells, nuts and cool mango. A very fine smokiness. A touch of salt. Very, very fine.
The taste is tight and fine with a lovely mouthfeel, some maturity and notes of blood oranges, fudge, sweet minerals and shellfish. Very, very long and velvety. Just stunning. Would love to have more of this. Entering maturity but will go on for 5+ years.
94p   (tasted 2017/02)



2014 Russian River Valley Chardonnay, Rochioli
A deep, concentrated, lovely nose with notes of lemon cream, passionfruit, roasted hazelnuts, candled grease and lemon fudge. Stunning. A wonderful smoky scent. This is really fine.
The taste is young, steady and fine with notes of grilled lemons, summer flowers, hand cream (the expensive kind) and cap gun smoke. A long, steady, focused finish. This will go on being gorgeous for another 8+ years. Gotta get me more.
94p   (tasted 2017/03)


Sunday 12 March 2017

Tasting The Divine Collection

That sounds great, doesn´t it? The Divine Collection.
I spend two hours tasting through the Swedish importer Divine´s assortment, or, in all fairness, a tiny part of their range, I just managed to taste ca 30 wines.
Here are the highlights. Point are given with an approximate score, since I only spend a minute or two with each wine.

The Whites
The 2014 Kick on Ranch Riesling, Ojai is a cool, fresh American Riesling with lots of finesse (~91p). Another Riesling, the 2015 Zöbing from Hirsch shows a spicy, grassy nose and a fine taste with white peppers and lime (~89p).


The 2014 Angosto Blanco with its interesting mix of Verdejo, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat is a winner, with a cool, fresh nose with ripe tangerines and a fine taste with character, and a price tag of 13 Euro (~88p).
Another interesting mix, and a great wine, is the 2014 Arbe Garbe, which is made out of Tocia Friu, Malvasia and Ribolla, and shows a deep, smoky, complex nose with a great dense mouthfeel and presence. Buying! (~93p).


Two Chardonnay´s caught my interest - The Puerta del Mar, Ojai, this time in vintage 2014, and always delivering a cool, fresh, intense Chardonnay with a steely. lemony taste (~91p. On the other hand, the 2013 Ritchie, Ramey, is a more rich, fat Chardonnay that keeps all things together and is just gorgeous (~93p).

The Reds
Pinot! Who doesn´t love a sensuous Pinot? These caressed my palate the right way.
2014 Santa Barbara Pinot Noir, Ojai exhibit a warm, chalky nose and a spicy, forest floor taste with a fine balance (~89p). A step up is the 2014 Russian River Pinot Noir, Lynmar Estate with is extrovert, concentrated nose and tight, focused palate (~92p). Almost as good, the 2015 Shea Pinot Noir, Ken Wright displays a sweet, herbal nose and a lingering, forest floor taste (~91p).


Best of the American Pinot´s was the 2014 Southing Pinot Noir, Sea Smoke. I have always liked the wines from this estate, and this was no exception, with its lovely perfumed nose and silky yet intense taste (~94p). One for the cellar.
From New Zeeland, the 2014 Burn Cottage Pinot Noir, could almost compete with the Sea Smoke. But why compete, I want them both! A deep, spicy, multi layered nose and a delicious, complex taste (~93p).

Next up, some Piemonte wines - the 2015 Barbera d´Alba Ornati, Parusso has a berry, open nose with lots of raspberries and a young, fruity taste with a fine acidity (~89p). The 2012 Barolo, Parusso has a warm, dusty nose and a tight, somewhat mute taste. From a newly opened bottle, this needs air, but for now (~88p). From the great 2004 vintage the Barolo Riserva Essenze, Vite Colte is poured and shows a deep, somewhat mature nose with lots of mushrooms and dried red fruits. The taste is dry and vigorous with fine cherry fruit and lots of dry liquorice (~91p).



I of course tasted the two bottles from Blankbottle, but is was the same vintages as tasted in the autumn of 2016, and they behaved the same, so read all about it here!

To finish things of I headed to the table were Paolo Paffi poured wines from the Casa Emma estate.
The 2013 TuBe is a simple everyday drinking Sangiovese with a nice acidity (~86p). The 2014 Chianti Classico is a pure, classic Chianti with real charm and finesse (~91p). Deeper but also a tad more restrained is the 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva and it will need some years in the cellar (~90p). As good as the Riserva is the 2012 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, with a refined nose and a seedy, cherry flavoured taste (~90p).
Their 2012 Soloio is a interesting Super Tuscan, a 100% Merlot which they have been making since 1982. The 2012 version has a deep, plummy, spicy nose and a rich, velvety palate with lots of vigour and class (~92p).


Friday 10 March 2017

Two Unknown Vintage´s Of Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)


I love to buy these anonymous bottles, in this case two bottles of Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru). One without a label and one with a label but the vintage schratched of. Both bought for a song.

The cork usually carries the vintage info, so lets pull them out softly. Both comes out in one piece. The bottle with no label display the name of Branaire (Duluc-Ducru) clearly on the cork and tilting it the vintage is readable...1934.
The other cork is black and no information is visible. The level of this bottle is not that good, so this one is easy forgotten. But the 34...

? Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)
Have drunk a couple of older Branaire and by thel abel and bottle shape, I would venture that this is from the 70´s. The nose is mature, round and loose around the edges with notes of cooked black fruits, moist earth, old leather and some VA. Acceptable but not good.
The taste is mature, dry and volatile with notes of old tobacco, dried black currants and a moist cellar. Rather short. Drinkable with food but passable.
74p   (tasted 2017/03)



1934 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)
Ooooh boy! I will venture that this will make the short list of the 10 most memorable bottles when 2017 will be summarized. A perfectly mature Bordeaux is hard to beat. No label, the level is just below the neck and the cork came out in piece, revealing the vintage.
What a nose! The first pour displays soft red currants with some leathary aromas and a stable in the distance. But with air it fattens up and notes of dry chocolate wafers, pipe tobacco, pencil shavings and autumn leaves oozesup from the glass. Keeps on delivering the goods for two hours before fading ever so slightly, and when it does, it gives of a fascinating scent of a black currant vinegar. Great stuff!
The taste is soft, persistent, velvety and utterly gorgeous with notes of dried red and black currants, dark biscuits, a touch of dog fur, autumn leaves and coffee grounds. Very long and with a prescence of a distinguished, vigorous old gentleman, all dressed in tweed. For the two hours it blossomed in the glass it had a wonderful balance, complexity and drinkability. Just lovely.
96p   (tasted 2017/03)


Thursday 9 March 2017

La Chablisienne Lunch Tasting

Vinunic invited, I went. Hervé Tucki from La Chablisienned held an inspired presentation of the wines and vintages.
I tasted the majority of the wines the day before when I tasted Ruggabellus & Clonakilla, so I will comment on if the wines showed identical on the two days or not.

Flight I
2015 Petit Chablis Vibrant
A fresh, pure nose with notes of spicy lemons, summer flowers and a hint of ginger. A Sauvignon Blanc touch to it.
The taste is cool and ligth, yet with fine purity and a fine lemon fruit. For gulping in the summer to some shellfish. Showed a bit better on day two, with the food.
87p   (tatsted 2017/02)

2015 Chablis Le Finage
A fine, spicy, cool nose with notes of gravel, grilled lemon and summer flowers. Very good.
The taste is young and tight with notes of spicy lemons, grass and star fruit. Balanced and really fine. Better on day two.
89p   (tasted 2017/02)




2014 Chablis Dame Nature
A very stony, rocky, gravelly nose with notes of rocks...and not much else. Is this made of grapes or rocks?
The taste is tight and stony with a high acidity and some dry lemon and dry grass. Ungenerous. They started making this in 2013. I am not going to say that I hope they will stop making it, but a great year as 2014 and all you get is chrushed rocks? Not for me. Identical notes on day one and two.
81p   (tasted 2017/02)

2014 Chablis Les Vénérables
The Les Vénérables is a fine wine, with a fine, laid back nose with notes of summer flowers, yellow plums and some smoke. Very, very good.
The taste is young, fine and balanced with notes of sweet lemons, warm grass, minerals and oyster shells. A long finish with a fine mouthfeel. Identical notes on day one and two. This is for buying by the case at 16 Euro.
91p   (tasted 2017/02)

Flight II
2015 Chablis 1er Cru La Grande Cuvée
An open, handsome nose with notes of dried tropical fruit, soap, grilled lemons and gravel. Very, very good. A fine sweetness to the fruit.
The taste is young and fresh with notes of ripe lemons, parsnip, eraser and earth. Interesting and fine. Really good. Only tasted once.
91p   (tasted 2017/02)

2013 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Mileu
A cool, rocky nose with notes of assorted yellow fruits, dried flowers, sun warm rocks and smoke. Very elegant.
The taste is young and tight with notes of chrushed rocks, lemon peel and summer flowers. A fine, high acidity. Very, very good. Identical on both occasions.
90p   (tasted 2017/02)




2008 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Mileu
A big, open nose with notes of overripe lemons, dried pineapple, moist earth and a hint of a dishrag. Somewhat oxidized.
The taste is dry, warm, edging on fiery with notes of decaying flowers, old yellow apples and dry fudge. An unbalanced finish. An ok wine but it has matured rapidly. Both bottles identical.
79p   (tasted 2017/02)

2009 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
A round, generous, fine nose with notes of lemon cream, grass, lemon liquorice and sweet minerals. A tad mature. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of yellow apple, lemon cream, minerals and smoke. Very long and fine. Tasted only once.
91p   (tasted 2017/02)

Flight III
2013 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
A deep, spicy , multi layered nose with notes of grilled lemons, cap gun smoke, ripe flowers and a fine after-the-rain aroma. Very fine.
The taste is tight and demanding with notes of lemon cream, chrushed rocks, orange fudge and smoke. A long, concentrated finish. Needs 4+ years. A fine wine. Identical bottles.
93p   (tasted 2017/02)


2007 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses
A deep, stony nose with some maturity and notes of smoke, ripe lemons, almond paste and a hint of burning table tennis balls! Very, very good.
The taste is spicy and warm with notes of ripe lemons, tangerines, smoke and dried flowers. Long and fine. Behaved the same on day one and two.
92p   (tasted 2017/02)

2011 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
A very refined, deep nose with notes of passion fruit, lemon cream, candle grease and sweet minerals. Very, very fine.
The taste is cool, tight and focused with notes of chrushed rocks, dried flowers and lemon fudge. A long, balanced finish with grace and power. Really fine. One for the cellar. Great on day one, even better at the lunch.
95p   (tasted 2017/02)




1996 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles
From magnum no less. And directly from La Chablisenne´s cellar. Should be good, no? And it was, but not on that level of magic I had hoped. The nose is deep, tight and concentrated with attenuated notes of ripe lemons, smoke and minerals. Lots of quality here but it doesn´t really lift.
The taste is big, dry and tight with notes of dried tropical fruit, dry lemon cream, cap gun smoke and dry minerals. Very long. Ending on a dry note. Very, very good but was it better a couple of years ago? Tasted once.
89p   (tasted 2017/02)


Wednesday 8 March 2017

Wine & Fish

Some fish dishes and accompanying wines from the last couple of weeks.

2013 Montagny 1er Cru Les Coéres, Feuillat-Juillot
A nice, cool nose with notes of tangerines, white flowers and smoke. A bit laid back in a good way. A nice sweetness. Very, very good.
The taste is cool, young and seedy with notes of blood grape, pine nuts, cucumber and smoke. A medium long finish with a fine acidity. For drinking now and the coming 4+ years.
89p   (tasted 2017/01)



2014 Saint Véran En Faux, Domaine Cordier
A big, open for business nose with notes of grilled lemons, summer flowers, pickled ginger and smoke. A fine perfumed note. Very, very good.
The taste is fine and broad with notes of dried apricots, almond paste, lemon cream and matchbox. A long finish with a nice mouthfeel. Will drink fine for 5+ years.
90p   (2017/01)





NV Brut, Piper-Heidsieck
A fine, round, mature nose with notes of ripe oranges, hazel nuts, earth and dry dark cookies. A fine maturity.
The taste is dry and mature with notes of dry caramel, yellow apples, matchbox and nuts. A long, fine finish. On top of its game.
88p   (tasted 2017/02)



2014 Macon-Vergisson La Roche, Daniel et Julien Barraud
A good, fruity, open nose with notes of lemon fudge, butter cookies, smoke and soapy scent. Very good.
The taste is medium bodied and lush with notes of dried apricots, lemon cream and dried up vanilla ice cream. Very good but a tad superficial.
86p   (tasted 2017/02)



2014 Pouilly Fuisse Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Cordier
An open, fruity, fresh nose with notes of grilles lemons, grass, lime fudge and a hint of coconut. Very open and yummy.
The taste is big and broad with notes of lemon cream, ripe flowers, minerals and cap gun smoke. A long, fine finish. Very, very good.
88p   (tasted 2017/02)





Tuesday 7 March 2017

Some Barbaresco´s From Piero Busso



BraVin invited to a casual tasting with the opportunity to meet the winegrower of Piero Busso, Pierguido, son of Piero. He is a charming, passionate winegrower who obviously love what he is doing. He took over from his father in 2009. They used to use barriques when aging the wines but from the 2010 vintage it is all big Slavonian botti that the wines rest in.
The production is about 45.000 bottles per year. Founded in 1953, their first vintage with the Busso name on the label was 1979, before that they sold their grapes to the Produttori del Barbaresco.
Busso has four Barbaresco´s, of which I got to taste three. Some really fine wines here.

2013 Barbera d´Alba S. Stefanetto
But first a fine Barbera with an open, spicy nose with notes of ripe red apples, smoke, dried raspberries and a fine salty scent. Very, very good.
The taste is cool and herbal with fine red fruit and a high acicity, keeping it clean and fresh. Salivating. A fine, laid back warmth. Really good.
90p   (tasted 2017/03)

2007 Barbaresco San Stunet S. Stefanetto
From a magnum. A round, somewhat mature nose with notes of dried strawberries, autumn leaves, rosehips and a touch of tobacco. Very, very good. A fine dried up sweetness.
The taste is cool and more tight than the nose leads you to believe, with notes of red cherries, gravel, roseships and mushrooms. A long, sandy finish. Some maturity but will evolve for another 5+ years.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)


2011 Barbaresco San Stunet S. Stefanetto
A young, handsome, seedy nose with notes of cool red cherries, ripe lingonberries, smoke and lots of fresh mushrooms. This is fine. Classy.
The taste is young and tight with notes of hard cherry candy, dry liquorice, violets and earth. A long, tight finish with a salty touch at the end. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2017/03)

2012 Barbaresco San Stunet S. Stefanetto
The 12 San Stunet offers up a polished, vigorous nose with notes of red cherries, tobacco, flowers and dusty earth. A very fine perfumed aroma. Deep and lovely.
The taste is young, focused and seedy with notes of ripe red cherries, tobacco, earth and rose petals. A long, structured finish with young, vibrant tannins. Will get even better in 4-6 years. Really fine.
93p   (tasted 2017/03)


2012 Barbaresco Albesani Vigna Borgese 
The Albesani Cru is right next to Santo Stefano and this 2012 shows a lovely, mineral laden nose with notes of red cherries, flowers, warm sand and rosehips. Refined and deep. Very promising.
The taste is tigh and crips with notes of sweet lingonberries, warm gravel, mushrooms and rosehips. A long, balanced finish with polished tannins. Great things ahead if you give this 5+ years.
93p   (tasted 2017/03)

2011 Barbaresco Gallina
The Gallina has a cool, deep, finely tuned nose with notes of ripe red and black cherries, warm rocks, liquorice and a touch of dark mint. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of crushed minerals, red cherries, liquorice and dried flowers. Long and refined. A touch withdrawn. Needs time.
91p   (tasted 2017/03)



Sunday 5 March 2017

2010 Barolo Coste & Bricco, Matteo Ascheri


I opened a youngster to go along a hearty lasagna on this Sunday evening.

2010 Barolo Coste & Bricco,  Matteo Ascheri
Hard as nails right out of the bottle but with two hours in a decanter things starts to happen. The nose is young and handsome with fine notes of ripe red currants, detergent, rose petals, dry asphalt and raspberry liquorice, Very fine. High and pure. Racy. Will evolve beautifully.
The taste is young, tight and sandy with notes of lingonberries, dried wild strawberries, mushrooms, rosehips and dusty earth. A long, structured finish with a polished tannins. A touch of sandelwood. Needs time. Will turn out great, just give it 6+ years.
93p   (tasted 2017/03)