Thursday, 22 June 2017

The Barolo Boys In Piedmont - One Intense, Diligent, Nebbiolo Filled Saturday



The Friday was a lovely, easy going day, but the Saturday - oooh boy - 34 Baroli tasted, four wine grower visits, a wine show in La Morra and a dinner with two wine growers that stretched out into the night.

But The Barolo Boys soldier on!

First stop of the day - Altare. The human energizer bunny in the shape of Silvia Altare greats us with her three dogs and whisk us in the tasting room. She is, by her own account hangover from the night before. I´m just saying, I´m not even close having her energy level when I´m not in the least hangover...



Altare
2014 Langhe Larigi
This Barbera, from a difficukt year for that grape, is a lovely one. The nose is large scaled, open for business and yummy, with notes of cream cooked cherries, raspberry licorice and warm gravel.
The taste is round and generous with notes of Finnish licorice, dried raspberries, smoke and coconut chocolate. Long, pure and higly drinkable.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)



2014 Langhe Giàrborina
A new name for an old wine, since the bureaucrats in Rome have changed the rules of naming wines. Still a lovely wine though, with a nose filled with spices, strawberries, undergrowth and a hint of tobacco. Very fine.
The taste is tight, seedy and racy with notes of ripe red cherries, dried strawberries, fir and herbs. A long, distinct finish with a high acidity. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2014 Langhe La Villa
The La Villa is a 60% Barbera and 40% Nebbiolo blend and showcases a deep, elegant nose with notes of ripe black cherries, forest floor, spices and some dark chocolate scents. Very deep and fine.
The taste is sandy and fine with notes of red and black cherries, gravel, spices and tobacco. A long, taut finish. Very promising.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)



2013 Barolo Arborina
All of the the Baroli from the hands of Silvia are magical. The Arborina is a dream with its haunting nose of sour/sweet cherries, mushrooms, warm rocks, violets and spices. Multi layered and impressive.
The taste is young of course and at first a bit nervous but with a bit of swirling over the tongue lovely aromas of licorice, violets, dried wild strawberries and spices emerge. The finish goes on for over a minute. Really fine.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Unoperuno
Can a wine be too perfect? Maybe in the case of the Unoperuno. Grape per grape, hand picked, just the perfect ripe ones, not one underripe grape, not one overripe, no bugs, no stems, no nothing but perfectly ripe grapes from the Arborina vineyard. Everything done by hand. Just 1500 bottles with a 250 Euro price tag.
And the wine? Soooo fine. The nose is deep, profound and ethereal with a velvety character and notes of the most perfect cherries ever with some additional notes of leather, warm sand, mushrooms and rosehips. The focus and concentration is of the charts.
The taste is brilliantly pure and fine with notes of cool red cherries, licorice, warm rocks and expensive leather. The tannins have been polished with the finest cloth. Over a minute long finish. Almost perfect. Almost Burgundy like in structure, finesse and deliverance. I miss just a touch of edge, sturdiness, backbone. But my prayers will be heard, with the 15 vintage some grapes from the Cannubi and/or Cerretta vineyard will be added, and then...
98p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo Cannubi
An open, deep and spicy nose with notes of chrushed cherries, Finnish licorice, diesel oil and lots of moist forest floor. Very deep and fine.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of fir wood, ripe cherries, licorice, sweet violets and leather. A very long, intense finish. Really, really fine.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

2011 Barolo Cerretta Vigna Bricco
Oooh boy, what a wine! The nose concentrated, deep and full of finesse, power and grace. Lots of dark raspberries, asphalt, licorice and herbs. Very, very deep. Classy.
The taste is focused, multi layered and intense with notes of ripe cherries, crushed rocks, dark licorice and violets. A poster child for the "an iron fist in a velvet glove" expression. A two minute long finish. Just stunning.
97p   (tasted 2017/05)


Next thing we know we are rummaging trough Accomasso´s garbage.

Say what?!

While chatting with Silvia her neighbour across the street - Accomasso - comes up. There are some stories to be told of him, and when we drove from Silvia we thought that we should pull up for a surprise visit.
There were no answer at the door but after a while we got hold of him over the phone. No visit possible at that time but now we have booked a visit with him when we return in November. Looking forward to that, having heard stories of both fantastic and horrible wines...



Since we had some time over before our next visit we drove to La Morra and visited Paola, the (Swedish) wife of Carlo Revello. The last time we visited the two brothers had the Revello estate together but now they have split up and divided the vineyards between them.
Paola opened this Enoteca in 2015, called wine not? and we took the chance to speak some Swedish and taste the Revello line up with the new, great looking label.


Paola, being her usual self :-)
Carlo Revello
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba
A flirtatious, open nose with notes of blueberry juice, gravel and dried flowers. Very good.
The taste is juicy and cool with a fine acidity and a medium length. Gulpable.
87p   (tasted 2017/05)

2015 Barbera d´Alba
A open, dark nose with a mix of raspberries and blueberries with some licorice and dark flowers tosssed in. Very good.
The taste is big and fruity with notes of dried raspberries, asphalt and warm spices. A fine acidity.
87p   (tasted 2017/05)

2015 Langhe Nebbiolo
A warm, spicy nose with notes of licorice, violets and ripe red cherries. A fine warmth.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of warm sand, ripe cherries, violets and mushrooms. A long, finely tuned finish. Very good.
89p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo
Another really fine Normale with grapes from Conca, Gattera and Cerretta. The nose is open and sappy with notes of spiced up cherries, forest floor, rosehips and tobacco. Very, very good.
The taste is tight and expressive with notes of raspberry licorice, Maraschino cherries, cough medicine and tobacco. Very long, very structured and very fine.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo R.G.
The R.G. means that the grapes comes from Rocche dell´Annunziata and Giachini. The nose is deep, velvety and harmonious with notes of dark cherries, cigar smoke, dried ceps and forest floor. Very fine. High and pure.
The taste is concentrated and pure with notes of ripe cherries, dry licorice, bonfire smoke and mushrooms. A very long finish with silky tannins. Really fine.
94p   (tasted 2017/05)





This was a long awaited visit for me, my first to Burlotto. Meeting Fabio Alessandria, tasting and talking with him was a real treat. He is too modest about the world class wines he bottles.

Burlotto
2016 Langhe Sauvignon Virdis
A fresh, crispy nose with notes of gooseberries, grass, flinta and sage. Very pure and fine.
The taste is clean and perky with notes of elderberries, grass and minerals. Easy drinking, very accessible and very good.
89p   (tasted 2017/05)




2016 Pelaverga
Another notch in the belt, since I never before have tasted any wine from this grape. The nose is light and interesting with notes of white pepper spiced raspberries, lingonberries and incense. Very, very good. Has the scent of old church benches.
The taste is dry and tight with notes of lingonberries, white pepper and spices. A high, fine acidity. Very fine.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)

2015 Barbera d´Alba
An open, fruity, ripe nose with notes of spiced up strawberries, Maraschino cherries, licorice and a hint of dry chocolate. Very, very good.
The taste is more tight than the nose leads you to believe with notes of ripe cherries, warm gravel, dry licorice and some tobacco. Vigorous and fine. Very long.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Acclivi
All the three Baroli tasted (we didn´t taste the Normale) are truly great wines and a must for the cellar. The Acclivi has a pure, intense, old fashioned nose with notes of roses, red cherries, cigarette ash, violets and a hint of dogfur. High and really fine. Wild raspberries after a while. This is goood.
The taste is pure, focused and just lovely with its energy, tension and drinkability. Lots of rosehips, paint, violets and dried strawberries. Great acidity and tannins that are lurking in the background.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)







2013 Barolo Monvigliero
Yet again (see the 13 Ravera, Vietti above) - Galloni and I don´t see eye to eye when it comes to awarding a perfect score. He has given the Monvigliero 100p. This is a great wine and I will be buying, but it is not a perfect wine.
The nose is broad and open with notes of forest floor, lingonberry jam, paint and tobacco. Refined and fine. Very deep. A harmonious character. Really fine.
The taste is tight and seedy with notes of dried strawberries, forest floor, perfume and dried cookie dough. Very interesting. Different. Some sturdy tannins in the end of the long finish. Needs time. Very, very good.
94p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Cannubi
The Cannubi is what dreams are made of. The nose is cool, concentrated and multi layered with notes of chrushed strawberries with a touch of mint, fir, paint, violets and warm tiles. Seamless and just lovely.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of dried strawberries, paint, dried roses, mushrooms and violets. A very long, intense finish. Very pure. A stunning wine.
97p   (tasted 2017/05)




Next stop on this fun filled Saturday - Azelia. We were met by Lorenzo Scavino and were given a tour of the cellar before we made our way to the tasting room.

Azelia
2015 Dolcetto d´Alba Bricco dell´Oriole
A deep, fine nose with notes of spices, blueberries, dried flowers and clay. A tad more dense than your average Dolcetto.
The taste is tight yet juicy and fine with notes of licorice, blueberries, gravel and herbs. A long, succulent finish with a good acidity. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)




2014 Langhe Nebbiolo
A warm, open nose with notes of roses, smoke, minerals and a very fine wild strawberry fruit. Very, very good.
The taste is young and tight with notes of ripe lingonberries, dried strawberries, smoke and sweet minerals. A long finish with salivating tannins. Really good.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barbera d´Alba Punta
The Punta is open for business with a warm smoky aroma and additional notes of Finnish licorice, cinnamon, herbs and ripe raspberries. A very fine warmth.
The taste is big and bold with notes of cherry jam, smoke, undergrowth and tobacco. A long, warm, velvety finish.
88p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo
The Normale´s from 2013 keeps on impressing. The Azelia version, that comes from six different vineyards, has a young, spicy nose with notes of sour/sweet cherries, cigarette ash, mushrooms and rosehips. Cool and energetic. Really good.
The taste is tight and fine-limbed with notes of hard cherry candy, dry licorice, mushrooms and rosehips en masse. Very handsome.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Margheria
The nose of the Margheria is fantastic with notes of ripe roses, smoked cherries, mushrooms, clay and a ever so sligth touch of mint. Very deep and very fine.
The taste is concentrated and deep with notes of hard cherry candy, licorice, forest floor, violets and dark flowers. A lovely salty note in the end. Some sturdy tannins shows themselves at the end. This is gooood.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)




2013 Barolo San Rocco
This Monopole cru is even better! A truly wonderful, deep and intense nose with gorgeous aromas of ripe red and black cherries, rosehips, ceps and dark cookie dough. Dark, broading and yet luminous. Stunning.
The taste is concentrated and expressive with notes of sour/sweet cherries, iron, mushrooms, sweet violets and fine tobacco. A long, long finish with sappy tannins. Great wine!
96p   (tasted 2017/05)

2007 Barolo Riserva Bricco Voghera 
Then we got the privilege to taste the Bricco Voghera, their Riserva which is released 10 years after harvest. A special wine indeed, not for everybody, and sadly not for me. The nose is rich and compact with notes of tomatoe jam, cooked cherries, dark perfume and tobacco. There is lot of dried fruit here, aking to the style of Amarone.
The taste is very concentrated and ample with lots of (over)ripe cherries, plums and raspberries with additional notes of rosehips, sweet tobacco and moist undergrowth. There is no question about that this is a high quality wine, but sadly it is not up my alley.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)




Who could resist?!

We headed up to La Morra where Cantina Communale had arranged a Degustazione with a dozen of producers and focus on the 2013 vintage. We tasted the wines below with some diffculties - lots of people and the room where the tasting was held turned 30 degrees...

2013 Barolo, Andrea Oberto
An open, fine nose with notes of sour cherries, gravel, leather and rosehips. A precise nose. Very, very good.
The taste is young and seedy with notes of ripe cherries, forest floor, violets and licorice. A long, fine finish with some nice tannins. Again, a really good Normale.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo Albarella, Andrea Oberto
The Albarella has a smoky, earthy nose with notes of ripe cherries, leather and dark licorice. A riper nose than the Normale.
The taste is big and smoky with notes of raspberry licorice, cooked cherries and undergrowth. A long finish. A bit ungainly at this stage.
88p   (tasted 2017/05)

2012 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Andrea Oberto
Not a 13, but this is good. The nose is cool and focused with notes of ripe red cherries, rosehips, tobacco and fir. Very, very good. A fine depth.
The taste is big, tight yet finely tuned with notes of sweet/sour cherries, tobacco, dried flowers and tobacco. A very long, distinct finish.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo La Serra, Marcarini
A fresh, energetic nose with notes of ripening cherries, mushrooms, earth and rosehips. Classic, down to earth and fine.
The taste is tight and fine-limbed with notes of cherries, violets, earth and a leathery perfumed note. Very, very good.
93p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo Brunate, Marcarini
The Brunate is a stunner, with a deep, brilliant nose filled with ripe red cherries, warm tobacco, moist earth and ceps. Very deep and with a lovely balance.
The taste is young, creamy yet focused with a fine core of ripe cherries and additional notes of hard cherry candy, dry licorice, gravel and dried flowers. Very, very long and fine. One for the cellar.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo, Giovanno Corino
Yet another fine Normale. This has a high, pure nose with notes of ripe cherries, bay leaves, forest floor and mushrooms.
The taste is tight and concentrated with notes of warm tiles, red cherries, dried mushrooms and asphalt. Long and fine.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo Giachini, Giovanno Corino
The Giachini has a deep, intense nose with notes of ripe flowers, raspberries, earth and a hint of tobacco. Very deep and fine.
The taste is focused and fine with notes of ripe cherries, raspberries, sweet flowers and some tobacco. Very sandy, fine tannins in the long finish. Very, very good.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Arborina, Giovanni Corino
A very fine, dense, complex nose with notes of ripe black cherries, fir wood, raspberry licorice, ski wax and some dark rubbery scents, all in a very appealing mix. Really good.
The taste is deep and concentrated with notes of dark flowers, black cherries, moist tobacco, leather and gravel. Very long, very focused and very, very good.
93p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo Marcenasco, Renato Ratti
A cool, seedy, light nose with notes of ripening cherries, dry licorice and some barnyardy scents. A tad anemic.
The taste is fruity and easy going with notes of cherries in cream, warm gravel and the same barnyardy note as on the nose. An ok bottle? Must try again.
81p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo Rocche dell´Annunziata, Renato Ratti
But the Rocche didn´t convince me that the Marcenasco was a bad bottle, since it wasn´t that good either. The nose is damp and warm with notes of cream cooked cherries, earth and cheap tobacco. Some wood notes.
The taste is seedy, warm and dry with notes of cooked cherries, dry licorice and warm earth. A long, warm, good finish. But in a 2013 context, this is not impressive.
86p   (tasted 2017/05)

After the La Morra tasting we headed to Marengo where we had a great time before heading out to our restaurant for the evening with the Marengo´s and the Pira´s.

Disclaimer - the importer of Marengo and Luigi Pira to Sweden (Origo Wines) are friends of mine and co founders of The illustrious Barolo Boys. I, however, have no financial interests in these wines, I just call them as I see them.

Marco preparing glasses and having a blast that The Barolo Boys are there :-)

2016 Dolcetto d´Alba
A young, frank nose with notes of lingonberries, flowers and gravel in a juicy and salivating combination.
The taste is spicy and cool with notes of lingonberries, spices and forest floor. A fine acidity. Very gulpable.
87p   (tasted 2017/05)



2015 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Pugnane
A fine, dense nose with notes of spices, undergrowth and raspberry chocolate. Fruity and fine.
The taste is spicy and broad with notes of sweet violets, raspberry licorice and ripe flowers. A long finish with a fine acidity. Very, very good.
90p   (tasted 2017/05)

2015 Barbera d´Alba Vigna Valmaggiore
The Valmaggiore is a tad deeper, denser and darker than the Pugnane with notes of fried herbs, hot gravel and Finnish licorice. This is really good.
The taste is juicy yet tight and concentrated with a fine mix of ripe raspberries and blueberries with additional notes of warm spices and undergrowth. Very long and very fine.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2013 Barolo
A handsome, high and fine nose with notes of wild strawberries, undergrowth, dry licorice and a touch of leather. Very, very good.
The taste is young, tight and balanced with notes of ripe cherries, raspberry licorice, cool tobacco and violets. A long finish with sappy tannins. Will turn out great with 4+ years in the cellar.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
The Bricco delle Viole displays a elegant, finely tuned nose with notes of cool cherries, ripe flowers, wild strawberries and violets. Pure and handsome. Very fine.
The taste is young and focused with notes of red cherries, strawberries, forest floor and licorice. A long, fine finish with finely polished tannins. Beautifully structured. Great wine.
94p   (tasted 2017/05)




2013 Barolo Brunate
A deep, intense nose with notes of raspberry licorice, a moist forest floor, dark flowers and some tobacco scents. Very fine. A fine depth and complexity.
The taste is taut and concentrated with notes of classic sweet/sour cherries, mushrooms, rosehips and warm gravel. Very, very long. Really fine. A must buy.
95p   (tasted 2017/05)

2011 Barolo Riserva Brunate
The 11 Brunate shows a big, spicy nose with notes of dried roses, ripe cherries, tapenade and some balsamic aromas. Very, very fine.
The taste is tight and dense with notes of cherry licorice, warm rocks, dried flowers and undergrowth. Silky tannins in the long, long finish. This is gooood!
95p   (tasted 2017/05)


2014 Barolo
We got the chance to taste the 14´s from cask. The Normale has an open, fruity almost creamy nose with notes of warm herbs, red cherries, licorice och cool tobacco scents. Very, very good.
The taste is seedy and tight with notes of sweet lingonberries, earth and hard cherry candy. A long finish. Very good.
89p   (tasted 2017/05)

2014 Barolo Bricco delle Viole
A finely tuned, cool, pure nose with notes of herbs, hard cherry candy, earth and violets (of course!). Very, very fine.
The taste is slender and fine with notes of red cherries, undergrowth, raspberry licorice and some smoke. Very long and very fine.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)

2014 Barolo Brunate
A very fine, elegant nose with notes of ripe cherries, smoke, mushrooms and dried wild strawberries. A very fine depth. Really fine.
The taste is tight and focused with notes of wild strawberries, forest floor, licorice, smoke and rosehips. Sandy tannins. Very long. Fine potential here.
93p   (tasted 2017/05)

2012 Barolo Riserva Brunate
Why not end on top? This is a stunner, with a ripe, concentrated nose with notes of dry cherry jam, dried flowers, mushrooms, cherry licorice and some balsamic aromas. Very deep and very fine.
The taste is concentrated and taut with notes of ripe black cherries, dried flowers, violets and asphalt. The finish goes on for over a minute. Great wine.
96p   (tasted 2017/05)




Leaving Marengo we head to Repubblica di Perno, a new acquaintance for me.


2015 Langhe Sauvignon Dives, Burlotto
We started with a follow up of our tasting Burlotto with his other Sauvignon. It is the same wine but this has been stored in Accacia wood. The base characteristics are the same but this has a creamy, deeper personality which I really like. Would love to have some for this summers grilled fish.
91p   (tasted 2017/05)


2013 Barolo, Renato Corino
I will buy a lot of the 13 Normale´s (and the cru´s...). This one has a open, juicy, deep nose with notes of ripe dark cherries, rosemary, undergrowth and rosehips. Lots of mushrooms after a while. Very, very good.
The taste is tight, refined and yummy with notes of Morello cherries, smoke, licorice and dried mushrooms. A long, warm, fine finish.
92p   (tasted 2017/05)


2012 Barolo Rupestris, Cappellano
Aaaaa Cappellano, an ongoing love affair of mine. Since I haven´t tasted the 12´s this was a perfect moment. The nose is handsome and balanced with notes of sweet/sour cherries, a multitude of flowers, rose petals, pine neddles and a hit of band aid for complexity. Stunning.
The taste is young, tight and poised with notes of wild strawberries, dried cherries, dry licorice and lots of chrushed rocks. The finish goes of for over a minute. Very, very fine.
Since the late Theobaldo didn´t want his wines to be scored, I never do   (tasted 2017/05)


2010 Barolo Ravera, Roddolo
We got a chance to taste this bottle, courtesy of the staff. The nose is big, deep and rustic with notes of cooked cherries, dark undergrowth and dried flowers. Interesting enough but a bit savage.
The taste is big and steady with notes of dark cherries, dried flowers and dusty earth. The tannins are on the rugged side. A good length. Very good.
88p   (tasted 2017/05)

So ends another day in Barolo land.



2 comments:

  1. Massive read! Great post Joakim! I'm sure you all had a beer just after sunset... ;-)

    ReplyDelete